Picking the Right Infrared Lamp for Your Bathroom
Nobody likes stepping out of a hot shower into a freezing bathroom. It’s a shock to the system. But here’s the trick: you don’t just want “heat,” you want the right amount of it. Our lamps use radiant heat. Instead of trying to warm up all the air in the room (which takes forever), the heat goes straight to you. It’s like stepping into a patch of sunlight on a cold day.
Getting the Power Right
If you’ve got a tiny bathroom—say, under 4m²—don’t go overboard. A 250W to 400W lamp is plenty. If you cram a 600W unit into a small stall, the room will turn into a sauna in seconds. Your thermostat will keep clicking on and off to keep up, and that constant cycling just wears out the filament faster. For the bigger bathrooms (6m² to 12m²), you’ll need a bit more punch. Think 600W to 1000W. In a larger room, those cold tiled walls and the exhaust fan just suck the heat right out of the air. A weak lamp won’t stand a chance. You’ll end up leaving it on for way too long, and your electric bill will show it.
A Quick Warning on “The Hit”
Shortwave lamps are great because they hit you with heat instantly. But they’re concentrated. If you put a high-wattage lamp in a room with low ceilings, it can feel a bit too intense right under the bulb. It’s all about the balance between how powerful the lamp is and how high you mount it. You want a cozy glow, not a heat lamp from a fast-food restaurant.
The Boring (But Important) Electrical Stuff
If you’re installing a few of these high-wattage lamps in one area, keep an eye on your circuit. A couple of 1000W lamps can pull a lot of power—enough to trip your breaker if your wiring isn’t up for the task. Also, do yourself a favor and use IP65-rated housings. Bathrooms are steamy, and that moisture loves to eat away at electrical contacts. Using the right housing keeps the connections tight and stops the sockets from pitting over time. It’s a small detail that saves you a massive headache later.